KOLKATA (Part 10)- Torpon,Mahalaya

28th Sept 08. 1:30pm. Mullik Ghat.

I accompanied my father & uncle for the annual ritual of 'Torpon' on the banks of the river Hoogly...
The generally deserted Mullik Ghat, was thronging with people.... The Rabindra Setu (Howrah Bridge) can be seen in the background.

By the time we reached, people were already present in hordes The River Hoogly flows under the Howah Bridge... while the people offer their prayers...
During the performance of the ritual, prayers are offered to the spirits of parents & fore-fathers by their sons or kins...

The large cantilever Howrah Bridge stands tall in the background.... while a priest performs the rituals in the fore ground...
A priest & a devotee chanting 'Mantras'.... The priest holds in his hands a dog-eared copy of 'Shlokas' & a ' Kansha' (brass) salver with 'Dhaan', 'Til', 'Chaal', 'Phool', Dubbo'...

A priest blessing a man with 'Gonga-mati' (mud from the Ganges)


'Kosha-Kushi' a spoon-like copper utensil which is used extensively during all 'Pujas' for holding the holy water of the Ganges...
Dad, offering his prayers to the Almighty.... 'Torpon'

'Pind- Daan' ... so that the soul of the dearly departed can rest in peace...

Some people prefer to perform more elaborate rituals...

Vaisnavs singing 'Kirtans'... Devotees at the Shiva temple behind Mullik Ghat...

On my way back, down the over bridge, I found a woman selling a bag full of 'Dhutro-Phool' this is used as offerings only to Lord Shiva!!!

In total, an unique experience... I had never been to the river side during this time ever in my life... I wadded knee deep in water to take the 'Torpon' photographs... Got my jeans wet in the process... Felt the squilching mud under my feet... but enjoyed the experience... much to the amusement of my father & uncle....

Another First....

This is a first for me, so I guess, I have the right to gloat... The above photograph was taken by me in our office premises on the occassion of the album launch, and was published in HT City, Dt: 17th Sept 08....
Cool Na???
It definately made my day....!!!!

KOLKATA (Part 9) Jagganath Ghat, Flower Market

I have lived in Kolkata all my life and perhaps would have gone through the rest of it without being completely aware of the different facets of my beautiful city... Its only since I have started writing my blog, that I am taking time off, to rediscover the City Of Joy...

Jagannath Ghat/Mullick Ghat. Having heard a lot about this place... I could hardly wait to visit it... I was warned about the place being unsafe ... about the mud...but I just thought that if it was a part of my city... my voyage of discovery will not be complete till I went for a visit.

I took a taxi... but it seemed that the driver was also unaware of the exact location... I told him to take me to Howrah ... at least to the base of the bridge... It really seemed to me , that I had picked a wrong day to start the expedition...there was a huge traffice jam...at every possible cross-road, the sky was over cast... with every passing tick of my wrist-watch, light was failing, even though it was not even 4:00pm...

My taxi crawled to the city base of the bridge... I leaned out and asked a policeman about the location of the Jagannath Ghat... he guided us towards 'Posta'... (yesssss.. the same Posta, made famous by poet Sukumar Ray "Shunte pelaam Posta giye....")
This is touted to be one of Asia's largest flower market...

I stepped out of the cab... there was nothing resembling a ghat.. forget about flower market... there were only dusty, dingy godowns... vendors... lorries lined up... and MUCK!!! Men there looked as me strangely... I could almost hear them wondering aloud.." ye kahan se aa gayi ?"

I asked around for directions... and was guided to the ghat... The sight that met my eyes was quite different from what my romantic soul imagined....

People Bathing... washing utensils, on the bank of Hoogly.... at Jagganth Ghat, the large cantilever bridge (Rabindra Setu, or Howrah Bridge as it is popularly called...) can be seen in the background.
Small boats on the Hoogly.... (this scenery reminds me of the innumerous landscapes that I used to draw as a child...)
'Shiva shringaar'... the temple on the bank of river Hoogly... being decorated by the temple priest...

As I could see no signs of the Flower market... I thought that since I had arrived late... the sale of flowers must be over...

I didnt want to look stupid.. but I still asked one of the guys in front of teh temple... " Flower market kahan hai??"

"Is galli se nikal ke dahina.." came the prompt reply....

"Abi tak khula hai?" I asked with bated breath....

"Hain.. hain..." .... I thanked him gleefully... & skipped ahead...

As I made my way towards the market through the meandering lane... I could see nothing but leaves strewn all about... a strong stench of rotting foliage assailed my senses... my feet quilched the muck underfoot...

However, my persistence was rewarded....FINALLY.... A riot of colour greeted me...

Roses & Marigolds... The flower -seller's sari matches the colours to perfection.... Rani Mukherji smiles from the faded blue background... Brilliant Colours from The Almighty's colour palette....
These two little ones kept running around me... they wanted their photos to be taken..The Guardian... she barked at me for trespassing...A Marigold seller & his daughter...Marigolds gallore....!!!This brilliant blue flowers are called 'Aparajeeta'Mixed Yellow & orange Marigold strands...

Vendors with basket ful of Marigold & 'Kaamini' flowersWhite strands of 'Togor' flowers, strikes a contrast with the colourful marigolds...Md. Ayub Ali.... is how he introduced himself.... Lotus seller..
'Rajnigandha' malas....
An old man selling white 'Togor' strands....Strands of blue 'Aparajeeta' & red 'Rangan'....
Flowers being valued & sold...Marigold Curtain...
' Jui'(Jasmine) flowers... Selling 'Dhutro' & 'Akundo' flowers...

Innocent best...!!! the little girl... tired of running around, has fallen asleep on the plastic gunny bags... right next to the 'Kaamini' flowers... she is totally unaware of the chaos around her...

Million Dollar Smiles....here caste creed didnt matter.. every one worked hand in hand... together ....helping eachother... as one BIG family...
'Kaamini'.... Red, pink & white...
Buying & selling Marigold...
A 'Rosy' Bouquet

A flower seller sits surrouned by 'Kaamini' & 'Aparajeeta' Flowers..
Three Musketeers.... sweet jovial boys...
A colourful swan...
The Rose sellers... making bundles...of the mose romantic flower in history of mankind.
Selling beautiful garlands made out of 'Moti Bel' & Marigold... this bispectacled man was very happy to have his photo clicked...
Flowers... Flowers....& more flowers...
Garlands & bouquets of roses.....
A Busy marigold seller...
Of Flowers & scales.... the wicker baskets are used to weigh the fowers...

A seller shuffles his flowers.....
Vendors take a break from selling their colourful wares....
A woman selling Marigolds...
A peanut seller...
The only lady I found selling Dhubbo... ( the three leafed grass, which is used for all pujas & ashirvaad ceremonies, especially in Bengal...)
An old man... setting with Marigold strands...
The three women selling flowers... these 'Akundo' flowers are ment only for Lord Shiva!!!
All in a row......

White profusion of the 'Togor' flowers...

A heap of 'Lotus'

The floral head gear meant for deities.... Brides...

A man selling "Aparajeeta' and 'Rajanighandha' strands
'Aparajeeta', Marigold,'Togor' and 'Kaamini'...
'Jui' Mala.....
The Red Hibiscus garlands, generally meant for Godess Kali...

Vendor holding up 'Moti-Bel' garlands... they do look like pearls...

The Creator & his creations...
A garland beautifully crafted out of maroon 'Morog-Jhunti' & yellow marigolds, I loved the rich velvety texture of the flowers...
Lali... she didnt quite like me invading her space & spoiling her beauty sleep... Sorry darling.. but you looked too cute to miss....
Colourful 'Jarbaras' jostle for space... Seen very often as the patent flower at the city 5 star hotels....these flowers are sent here from Bangalore or as far asThailand
Beautiful Garlands....
A boy at the Ghat. The gigantic Cantilever bridge... the vast expanse of the mighty river... all contrasts sharply with his dimunitive form... his loneliness comes through... there is not even a single bird in the sky...
A Typical scene from the steps of Mullick Ghat...
The Mullick Ghat building....
An Artist carving out thermacol Panels....
Stringing the flowers...
Delicate, colourful Orchids....
Here, I found a man who sold, accessories...colourful accompaniment for the equally beautiful flowers...
The market, which is situated just below the Howrah Bridge, continues its brisk business even" 'er the set of sun.." A yellow marigold seller....

As I wrapped up the day with this last shot... I could feel myself smilning... I cant remember a day when I enjoyed myself so much... I didnt realise when, amidst all my tramplings... my jeans got caked with mud... my kurti got splattered... I was like a child in the candy store, running gleefully from one end of the market to another...

A COLLAGE....

An Experience perfumed with the joy of existence...

Beautiful in its simplicity

Candid in its openness

Nascent in its innocence

Their warm smiles

Cheerful ribbing

Colloquial chatter
Their camaraderie

And unbiased bonding...

Has carved a niche for itself in my heart.... as I take back home a lot of beautiful and cherished memories....